I have often wondered if it matters what type of needle I use when I sew on different types of material...and the answer is YES!
For years, I used only the "universal" needles for everything, and then I discovered that to sew with a "denim" needle, it is easier to sew on denim! What a shock! So after that, I while continued to use mostly the universal sizes, occasionally, I used the denim when making shop clothes, hemming jeans, etc.
Then, one day, I was hemming a bridesmaid dress for my daughter, and while I had no trouble with the outer layer, when it came time to hem the liner - which was a very stretchy material - the needle kept getting the material stuck in the needle plate and bunching up. It was very frustrating!! So, like I do often these days, I turned to the internet for help.
I watched a few YouTube videos on various needles and their purposes, which were very easy to find with simple search terms like "what need can I use for stretchy fabric". The result was: try the "Stretch" needle for "stretch" fabric! Of course! Why didn't I think of that? Since I had a few of these, I switched out the needles and guess what? It was amazing,!! The difference that this made on my hemming project was huge!
Since that worked out so well, I then went back online and began to research more on the different types of needles, their best use, and what the numbers mean on the needle packaging.
Here are some basics of what I found:
*The numbers that range from 60-120 are the European Metric sizes, and sizes 8-20 are the American measurements.
*The number represent diameter of the needle - 1mm = 100
*The lower the number, the finer the needle; the higher the number, the larger the needle
*Finer needles work better on finer fabrics, and larger needles work better on thicker fabrics
*Needles come in many styles -
Examples of the needle to the fabric:
8,9,10 to be used for very fine fabrics - silk, chiffon, lace, etc.
11,12 can be used on lightweight fabrics - cotton viole, silk, spandex, lycra
14 is for medium weight fabrics - quilting, jersey, knits, fleece, cotton, linen, light wool
16 is best for heavy weight fabrics - denim, corduroy, canvas, twill, duck, leather
18 to be used with very heavy fabrics - heavy denim, upholstery, faux fur, canvas
There are at least 7 basic types of needles, and each has its strength for specific uses.
1. Ballpoint needle for knitting and stretch fabrics. Pointed tip sized 9-16.
2. Quilting Point needle for quilting! Harder tapered needle sized 9-12.
3. Regular Point needles for cotton, linen, and other woven fabrics, sized 9-18.
4. Wedge Point needles are sturdy and thicker, working well on leather, or vinyl, sized 11-18
5. Embroidery needles have larger eyes to accommodate thicker thread.
6. Universal Point needles work best on woven and knit, common sizes are 11/75 and 14/90
7. Topstitch needles used for decorative stitching.
Also, remember that you will have nicer looking stitches when you sew with a sharp needle.
The timing on this will of course depend on the project and the needle use, so keep an eye on the look of your stitches. If you think its time to replace the needle, do it! You can always re-use them if they are still sharp, but keep plenty on hand just in case.
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